How to Remove Dark Spots Caused by Pimples: According to Experts & Science (2023)

Get the latest expert and scientific guidance on how to remove dark spots caused by pimples. Discover the most effective treatments and tips to fade your dark spots.

how to remove dark spots caused by pimples

Ever wondered why those dark spots from past pimples won’t fade? You’re not alone. Clearing my skin, I’ve faced the same frustrating battle. A pimple heals, but that stubborn dark spot remains as a constant reminder.

Motivated by the quest for clear skin, I delved into dermatological research and literature. I’ve chatted with different dermatologists, pored over scientific studies, and sifted through tons of skincare advice to grasp the science behind these stubborn marks.

In this article, I’m stoked to share a mix of personal experience and professional knowledge. From diving into the root causes of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to checking out clinical treatments and products, these are the strategies and tips that have truly made a difference in my skin.

In this guide, we’ll talk about some super effective ways to get rid of these stubborn marks. Keep reading!

Understanding Dark Spots Caused by Pimples

Before we discuss ways to remove dark spots caused by pimples, let’s understand their causes.

When a pimple appears, it’s the body’s response to bacteria, dead skin cells, and excess oil clogging a pore. It triggers an inflammatory reaction, like a mini-infection. To protect the skin, the body produces too much melanin in that area.

Melanin is the pigment that gives our skin its color, and this increase is the body’s way of protecting the skin from further damage. But sometimes, particularly in darker skin tones, this process can result in an excess of pigment, causing a dark spot.

These spots are known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) for fair skin. PIH occurs due to inflammation, which increases pigment production, while PIE is caused by blood vessel dilation during healing.

Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation vs. post inflammatory erythema

Did you know that different skin types respond differently to inflammation? Dark skin produces eumelanin, while fair skin generates pheomelanin. Darker skin tones are more prone to PIH because they naturally produce more melanin. This extra melanin can take a long time to fade, often much longer than the pimple itself, leaving behind a visible mark on the skin.

The severity and duration of these spots vary based on factors like skin tone, genetics, and skincare routine. While some spots fade over time, others may need targeted treatments.

How To Remove Dark Spots Caused By Pimples

Before we jump into how to treat dark spots caused by pimples, I want to call out that the most effective way to treat dark spots is to prevent them from occurring. This means having skincare routine for acne is a must to stop your skin from breaking out so there aren’t any dark spots to treat.

To tackle hyperpigmentation effectively, it’s important to understand how treatment ingredients work. Many treatments target tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. These “tyrosinase inhibitors” can act before, during, or after melanin production.

Getting the best results from a treatment comes down to targeting multiple stages of melanin production. That’s why mixing different ingredients can give you even better results in the end.

How Ingredients Treat Dark Spots

Before Melanin Production: Retinoids (like retinol and adapalene) are great at stopping the start of melanin production. They speed up the turnover of skin cells, making it easier to get rid of pigmented cells.

During Melanin Production: Ingredients like Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Resveratrol help reduce the production of melanin. They regulate tyrosinase activity and can effectively lighten hyperpigmentation.

After Melanin Production: To stop melanin from spreading to nearby cells, you can use ingredients like Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Licorice Extract. These can really help reduce existing melanin and fade those stubborn dark spots.

Effective Ingredients for Dark Spot Removal

Retinoids

Retinoids work to target hyperpigmentation before the melanin production process starts. Plus, they speed up skin cell turnover, helping pigment reach the skin surface and shed faster.

0.1% adapalene gel (a type of retinol) has been proven to lighten certain types of dark marks, including post-acne marks [2]. Other forms of retinoid, like retinol and retinaldehyde, have similar lightening effects, although it might take a bit longer to see results [3].

Retinaldehyde, also known as retinal, is another form of vitamin A and a less-irritating derivative of retinoids. It’s one step closer to retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A in the skin) than retinol, making it more potent yet still gentler compared to stronger retinoids like tretinoin.

Azeliac Acid

Azelaic acid specifically targets abnormal pigmentation caused by inflammation or sun damage. But it doesn’t do much for normal pigmentation or freckles [4]. So, it can help lighten age spots and dark marks, but it’s not super effective for overall skin lightening. Combining treatments can give you even better results.

When used on its own, it can be as effective as 2% hydroquinone in reducing hyperpigmentation [5]. And if you combine it with glycolic acid, it can be just as effective as 4% hydroquinone [6]. Keep in mind that these results are based on prescription-strength azelaic acid, so over-the-counter strengths might take a bit longer to show results.

Niacinamide

This is a form of vitamin B3 that works wonders for your skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties help calm the skin, which is crucial in reducing the appearance of dark spots.

Niacinamide can actually reduce the spread of melanin to surrounding skin cells by up to 68% [7]. It’s pretty cool because it can also prevent sun-induced melanin production and give you lightning benefits similar to hydroquinone.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, the skin’s most abundant antioxidant, protects your skin from sun damage. It not only boosts collagen production but also brightens the skin.

By putting a stop to the enzyme responsible for melanin production, it helps fade dark spots and gives the skin a radiant glow. Ascorbic acid, the most active form of vitamin C, is just as effective as 4% hydroquinone at lightening skin and dark spots [9].

The best way to use vitamin C serums in your routine is to apply it in the morning because it can help protect your skin thought the day. I love Korean Vitamin C serums because are not only effective, but are also gentle on your skin. They are formulated with calming and hydrating ingredients like vitamin E, ferulic acid, centella asiatica, hyaluronic acid.

Licorice Extract

This extract contains an ingredient called glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces melanin production. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe the skin. When used in combination with other ingredients like vitamin C and niacinamide, it can be even more effective in fading dark spots [10].

Kojic Aid

Like Azelaic Acid, Kojic acid also targets abnormal pigmentation caused by inflammation or exposure to UV rays. It’s just as effective as 2% hydroquinone in reducing dark spots [11]. And when combined with other ingredients like retinol and vitamin C, it can have an even more significant impact on fading hyperpigmentation.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the skin, promoting cell turnover and revealing brighter, more even-toned skin. It also helps fade dark spots by breaking down the top layer of skin where pigmented cells reside.

How to Combine Ingredients To Treat Dark Spots Caused By Pimples

To get the best results, it’s essential to combine multiple ingredients that target different stages of melanin production. This multi-targeted approach can give you even better and faster results in fading dark spots caused by pimples.

Here are some ingredient combinations to try. It’s important to include one ingredient from each of the 3 groups (before/during/after melanin production).

6 Ways To Combine Brighting Treatments To Treat Dark Spots
  • Nacinamide, Zinc and Retinol: Niacinamide and Zinc in the morning and evening routines. Use Retinol in the evening.
  • Glycolic Acid, Retinol and Vitamin C: Vitamin C in am and pm routines. Glycolic Acid and Retinol at night.
  • Azelaic Acid, Ceramides, and Licorice Extract for both morning and evening routines.
  • Niacinamide, NAG, and Kojic Acid to both morning and evening routines.
  • Reseratrol, Green Tea and Retinol: Resveratrol and Green Tea in the morning and Retinol in the evening.
  • Vitamin C, Retinol and Azeliac acid: Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C for both morning and evening routines and Retinol at night.

When it comes to ingredient pH levels, variations are usually not a problem since they naturally adapt to your skin’s pH level (4.7 – 5.5).

However, if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to avoid using retinol, glycolic acid, and vitamin C all at once. For example, you could use vitamin C in the morning and combine retinol with glycolic acid at night. Or, if that’s still a challenge, you can use glycolic acid and retinol on alternate nights.

I recommend purchasing skincare products that already combine these ingredients to reduce the risk of your irritation. Plus it’s more cost effective.

Treatment Combination Tips
  • Consider using Bakuchoil instead of retinol. When it comes to Bakuchiol vs Retinol, Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative that offers similar benefits as Retinol, but with a lower risk of irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types


Professional Treatments for Dark Spots Caused by Acne

For those stubborn dark spots, you may need more intensive professional treatments to treat dark spots. Here are the most effective professional treatments:

Chemical Peels: This is all about applying a solution to get rid of dead skin cells and reveal healthier, brighter skin. It’s great for dealing with hyperpigmentation using acids like glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acid. You might need multiple peels for the best results.

Microdermabrasion: It’s a non-invasive treatment that buffs away dead skin, giving you a better complexion and lightening those acne dark spots.

Microneedling for acne scars involves tiny needles creating little punctures, which kickstarts your body’s natural healing processes and helps reduce acne scars and dark spots.

Laser Treatment: This focused light treatment breaks down pigmentation, reducing hyperpigmentation and improving your skin’s texture. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for the most suitable laser treatment.

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL): This one uses light energy to target sun damage, age spots, and acne marks.

Dermal Fillers: Some fillers can work wonders in improving the appearance of atrophic acne scars and dark spots.

Consult a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the optimal treatment plan for your skin. They will assess your skin type, severity of dark spots, and any other concerns to recommend the safest and most effective treatment options for you.

Treatment Considerations for Different Skin Types

Here’s a more detailed look into how different skin types should approach hyperpigmentation treatment.

Darker Skin Tones

Did you know that folks with darker skin tones have a higher chance of developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)? This happens because melanocytes in darker skin are more sensitive and produce more melanin when there’s any skin injury or inflammation.

Best Treatments: Use ingredients like azelaic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide to treat your dark spots. These can help prevent skin injury, inflammation, and ochronosis, which can actually make your skin even darker. If you decide to use hydroquinone, be careful to avoid making your skin darker. Dermatologists often recommend using it in cycles, like 4 months on and 2 months off, to steer clear of ochronosis.

Professional Treatments: Not all laser treatments are suitable for darker skin due to the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation. ND:YAG lasers and fractional non-ablative lasers are generally considered safer for these skin types. So, it’s crucial to seek treatments from experienced practitioners who specialize in treating darker skin.

Chemical Peels: Mild to moderate peels with glycolic acid or lactic acid can do the trick, but it’s best to steer clear of deep peels. They come with a higher risk of scarring and pigmentation changes.

Lighter Skin Tones

People with lighter skin tones usually have a higher tolerance for stronger treatments like deep chemical peels or ablative laser resurfacing. These treatments can really help with both surface-level and deeper pigmentation issues.

Best Treatments: If you have light skin, you can use hydroquinone for longer periods and at higher concentrations without worrying about side effects. Other treatments that work well include azelaic acid, kojic acid, retinoids, and vitamin C.

Professional Treatments: If you’re dealing with more stubborn pigmentation issues, you might want to explore options like intense pulsed light (IPL) or fractional ablative lasers. These treatments can help boost collagen production and refresh your skin, improving both pigmentation and texture. Just remember, there might be some downtime and temporary redness or swelling.

Sensitive Skin

If you have sensitive skin, you need to be extra careful when choosing hyperpigmentation treatment options. It’s best to avoid any harsh or abrasive treatments that can cause irritation and inflammation, which can make hyperpigmentation worse.

Best Treatments: For sensitive skin, stick to gentle yet effective ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, and kojic acid. Some natural options like licorice root extract and green tea extract also work well in improving pigmentation.

Professional Treatments: For professional treatments, stick to non-invasive options like microdermabrasion or gentle chemical peels. Microneedling with PRP (platelet-rich plasma) can also be a safe and effective option for sensitive skin.

Prevention and Ongoing Care for Dark Spots

After you’ve treated your hyperpigmentation and dark spots, it’s crucial to take preventive measures and keep up with ongoing care to keep them from making a comeback. Here are a few tips:

Sun Protection

It’s super important to make using a high UVA Korean sunscreen a part of your daily routine. UVA rays, known for causing age spots and tanning by activating melanin production, can still reach your skin even through windows. So, it’s something to keep in mind even when you’re indoors.

If you’re dealing with conditions like melasma and rosacea that can be triggered by visible light along with UVA and UVB, using sunscreens with iron oxide can give you extra protection. This ingredient covers a wider range of UVA and visible light, which means more benefits, especially for people with melasma. Here are a few of my favorite Korean mineral sunscreens that use iron oxide.

Avoid Skin Picking

For folks with darker skin tones, inflammation can trigger melanin production. Picking at the skin, especially those spots and pimples, can cause inflammation and lead to dark spots. If you have trouble resisting the urge to pick at your pimples, try using a pimple patch to help you keep your hands off your skin.

Early Acne Treatment

Taking care of acne from the start is crucial to avoid dark spots. To get rid of pimple redness quickly, use ice packs and apply anti-inflammatory creams like aloe vera or green tea extract or spot treat with benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, or sulfur. Check out my favorite Korean skincare products for acne to keep your skin clear.

Conclusion

Hyperpigmentation can be a frustrating and stubborn skin concern, regardless of your skin type. However, with the right treatment plan and ongoing care, you can significantly improve its appearance and prevent it from coming back.

Let me know in the comments which treatments and products have worked best for your skin type!

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  2. Jacyk, W. & Mpofu, P. (2001). ‘Adapalene gel 0.1% for topical treatment of acne vulgaris in African patients’, Cutis, 68(4), pp. 48-54.
  3. Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. et al. (2016). ‘A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin’, J Cosmet Dermatol., 15(1), pp. 49-57.
  4. Halder, R. & Richards, G. (2004). ‘Topical agents used in the management of hyperpigmentation’,Skin Therapy Letter, 9(6).
  5. Balina, L. & Graupe, K. (1991). ‘The treatment of melasma. 20% azelaic acid versus 4% hydroquinone cream’, Int J Dermatol., 20(12), pp. 893-895.
  6. Kakita, L. & Lowe, N. (1998). ‘Azelaic acid and glycolic acid combination therapy for facial hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients: a clinical comparison with hydroquinone’, Clin Ther, 20(5), pp.960-970.
  7. Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J. et al. (2002). ‘The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer’, Br J Dermatol., 147(1), pp. 20-31.
  8. Bissett, D., Robinson, L., Raleigh, P. et al. (2007). ‘Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine’, J Cosmet Dermatol., 6(1), pp. 20-6.
  9. Espinal-Perez, L., Moncada, B. & Castanedo-Cazares, J. (2004). ‘A double-blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs. 4% hydroquinone in melasma’, Int J Dermatol, 43(8), pp. 604-607.
  10. 10.Na, J., Shin, J., Choi, H., Kwon, S. & Park, K. (2019). ‘Resveratrol as a multifunctional topicalhypopigmenting agent’, Int J Mol Sci., 20(4), pp. 956.
  11. Hagiwara, K., Okura, M., Sumikawa, Y., Hilda, T., Kuno, A., Horio, Y. & Yamashita, T. (2016). ‘Biochemical effects of the flavanol-rich lychee fruit extract on the melanin biosynthesis and reactive oxygen species’, J Dermatol., 43(10), pp. 1174-1183.

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