The Best Skincare Routine For Acne: Comprehensive Guide (2023)

Discover the ultimate guide to the best skin care routine for acne in 2023. Learn expert tips, product recommendations, and proven methods to achieve clear skin.

Disclosure: Some of the links in this article may be affiliate links, which can provide compensation to me at no cost to you if you decide to purchase. These are products I’ve personally used, as well as are recommended by other skincare experts.

Are you tired of searching high and low for that elusive solution to banish acne once and for all? If you’re nodding your head in agreement, you’re not alone. As someone who has struggled with acne for years, I understand the frustration and challenges that come with trying to find the perfect skincare routine for acne to treat and prevent breakouts from occurring.

The never-ending sea of products promising miracles can make us feel overwhelmed and disheartened. We’ve all experienced the highs of temporary improvements followed by crushing disappointments when acne resurfaces with a vengeance.

In this comprehensive guide, I’m here to navigate the murky waters of acne-prone skincare together. No more confusion, no more false promises. Just effective strategies and actionable solutions (backed by research) to help you achieve the clear, radiant skin you deserve.

Let’s dive in.

What Causes Acne?

To effectively treat acne, it is important to first understand what is causing it. Here are the four main culprits of acne:

• Excessive Oil Production: Hormones play the puppet master here, controlling the amount of oil our skin produces. And when those hormones go wild, oil production can hit the roof, paving the way for pesky breakouts.

• Build-up of Dead Skin Cells: When skin cell turnover slows down, dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, clogging our pores and trapping oil within them.

• P.acnes Bacteria: This sneaky bacteria, present on all skin, feeds on our skin’s natural oils. When trapped oil becomes its buffet, it multiplies rapidly, leading to inflammation and unsightly breakouts.

• Inflammation: Our body’s natural defense mechanism kicks in when it detects an invasion of bacteria. White blood cells rush to the scene to fight the battle, resulting in redness, swelling, and the formation of pus-filled spots.

Types of Acne

Did you know that bacterial acne can be divided into two types? It’s crucial to tell them apart to ensure you’re getting the right treatment.

Hormonal acne is caused by those hormonal fluctuations during puberty, menstrual cycles, pregnancy, or menopause. You’ll usually see it on the lower face, like the jawline and chin. It shows up as these deep, painful cysts that get all inflamed. Hormonal acne tends to affect teenagers and adults, especially women.

On the other hand, bacterial acne can be split into two categories: non-inflammatory (comedonal) acne and inflammatory acne. Non-inflammatory acne is all about those pesky clogged pores, resulting in either blackheads or whiteheads. They look like these small bumps on the skin.

Now, inflammatory acne is caused by P. acnes bacteria, and it comes in different forms: papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. Papules are these little red bumps, while pustules are similar but with visible pus. Nodules are these deep, painful lumps without any visible pus, and cysts are these big, pus-filled lesions that often leave scars.

To tell the difference between hormonal and bacterial acne, you’ve got to consider the location, type, and timing. Hormonal acne tends to stick around on the lower face, while bacterial acne can pop up anywhere. If you’re dealing with cystic, deep, and inflamed acne, chances are it’s hormonal.

On the other hand, blackheads, whiteheads, and pustules usually point to a bacterial cause. Hormonal acne may act up during menstrual cycles or hormonal changes, while bacterial acne tends to be more consistent.

If you want a proper diagnosis and the right treatment, it’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist. They can take a look at your symptoms, medical history, and even do some skin testing.

Skin Conditions Mistaken For Acne

Sometimes, acne imposters show up, masquerading as other skin conditions. Rosacea, Perioral Dermatitis, and Milia are some of these pretenders. If you’ve tried all the usual treatments with no luck, it’s time to call in the experts (aka dermatologists) for a pro diagnosis.

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Best Skincare Routine For Acne

Acne is a complicated condition that’s not easily fixed by simply washing your face or applying some topical treatments. It can be triggered by genetics, hormonal imbalances, stress, and other factors. Treating acne requires a lot of trial and error.

If you’re trying to build a skincare routine to combat acne, you’ll want to focus on a combination of treatments that help you:

1. Speed up healthy cell turnover + reduce oil production
2. Minimize bacteria growth (like C. agnes)
3. Reduce inflammation and irritation + skin hydration
4. Reduce hyperpigmentation (the dark spots that acne can leave behind)

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Here is a skincare routine you can customize to banish your breakouts for good.

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Morning Skincare Routine For Acne

Step 1: Cleanse Your Skin

Start your day by cleansing your face with a mild, non-comedogenic cleanser. Avoid using harsh or abrasive cleansers that can irritate the skin and cause more breakouts.

If you’re actively breaking out, use a gel-based cleanser that has salicylic acid or benzyl peroxide. Salicylic acid removes excess oils and dirt from your pores, while benzoyl peroxide fights the bacteria that causes acne.

Not sure which one to go for – benzyl peroxide or salicylic acid? Here are a few tips.

• If you’re battling clogged pores, whiteheads, or blackheads, a cleanser with 2% salicylic acid is your go-to.
• If you’re dealing with papules, pustules, or inflamed acne, a cleanser with benzoyl peroxide is the way to go.

If you’re not currently experiencing a breakout and want to focus on acne prevention, you have two options:

• Option 1: Use a gel-based cleanser use a salicylic acid exfoliant 1-2 times per week.
• Option 2: In your morning routine, use a gel-based cleanser, and in your evening routine, use a cleanser with either salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.

Tip: After applying the cleanser, gently massage it into your face and let it sit for about 2 minutes. This allows the salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to penetrate your pores. Rinse your face with warm water afterward.

Best Cleansers For Acne Prone Skin

Step 2: Use a Hydrating Toner

Toning helps to balance your skin’s pH and remove any lingering impurities after cleansing. It preps your skin for the next steps in your routine.

Opt for Korean toners with soothing agents like green tea or centella, which calm inflammation and are gentle on the skin. Apply your toner using a soft cotton pad and gently pat onto the skin.

Best Toners for Acne

Step 3: Apply Serums & Treatments

Got a breakout? Try applying Azelaic acid. This multi-tasking ingredient fights bacteria and helps fade dark spots.

If your skin’s acne is under control, you can also amp up your routine with a vitamin C serum! It’s great for tackling hyperpigmentation (e.g. dark spots left over from your pimples).

Look for a Korean vitamin C serum with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. It works wonders in brightening your complexion, reducing hyperpigmentation, and shielding your skin from environmental stress. If you’re not concerned about hyperpigmentation or aging signs like fine lines and wrinkles, feel free to skip this step.

Best Vitamin C Serums

Step 4: Apply Gel Cream or Water-Based Gel Moisturizer

If you don’t hydrate properly, your skin might go crazy and start producing more oil, which can make your acne situation worse. Plus, acne treatments can be harsh and irritating on your skin. Without proper hydration, your skin barrier gets damaged.

So, the key is to keep your skin hydrated by using moisturizers to lock in moisture and protect your skin barrier.

I recommend using Korean moisturizers because they are non-greasy and won’t clog your pores. Look for hydrating and repairing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalene, and allantoin.

Here’s another tip: look for a moisturizer with Niacinamide. It helps control oil, reduces pores, and has anti-inflammatory effects, making it great for oily or acne-prone skin.

Best Moisturizers for Acne Prone Skin

Step 5. Apply Korean Chemical Sunscreen

Sunscreen is a MUST for your skin! It works by absorbing UVB and UVA rays that can harm you. Fun fact: Did you know that sunscreen doesn’t block the rays? It actually absorbs them and releases a little heat energy.

So when you’re picking a sunscreen, remember to check for UVB protection (SPF), UVA protection, and consider the texture too. Determining UVA protection can be tricky, as various countries have come up with their own rating systems.

Here is a little cheat sheet to help you out.

• In the US, look for words “broad spectrum” on. your sunscreen to make sure its tested for UVA protection.
• In Asia, they use PA system, ranking UVA protection from PA + to PA++++.
• In Europe, to get a UVA label the sunscreen has to be around the same protection as PA+++.

For oily skin, choose a chemical sunscreen, which tend to have a lighter, more oily skin friendly texture. Korean sunscreens also are formulated for more humid climates, so these are also great options for oily skin. If you have acne-prone skin, Korean mineral sunscreens are a great option. They have a lighter texture and are less likely to clog your pores.

Best Sunscreen For Acne Prone Skin

Night Time Routine For Oily Skin

At night, your skin repairs itself, so it’s a great time to use potent ingredients that target specific issues like acne or aging. Here are recommended steps for your nightly routine:

Step 1: Double Cleansing

Double cleansing ensures that all makeup, SPF, and day’s pollutants are thoroughly removed from the skin. Start with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser. This combination effectively removes impurities without stripping the skin.

Gently massage your Korean cleansing oil onto dry skin, then add water to emulsify before rinsing off. Follow with your gel cleanser for a deep clean.

Best Oil Cleansers

Step 2: Toning

As in the morning, toning at night helps to balance the skin after cleansing and preps it for further treatment. Use the same toner as in the morning to maintain consistency in your skincare routine.

Step 3: Apply Targeted Treatments (For Acne and Visible Pores)

Now is the perfect time to add acne-fighting and anti-aging treatments to your skincare routine. One of my personal faves is Retinol, specifically adapalene (Differin), which targets acne and addresses concerns like fine lines and hyperpigmentation.

Adapalene (Differin) is a form of retinol that focuses on comedonal acne, preventing clogged pores and comedones. Studies have shown that topical retinoids, like Adapalene, can reduce both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions by 40-70%

To get rid of pimple redness quickly, use ice packs and apply anti-inflammatory creams like aloe vera or green tea extract or spot treat with benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, or sulfur.

To remove dark spots caused by pimples, look for skincare products with vitamin C, retinol, or glycolic acid. These ingredients help brighten and even out skin tone over time.

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Step 4: Moisturize with A Gel Moisturizer

Finish off your night routine by applying a lightweight moisturizer that won’t clog your pores and will help balance oil production while you sleep. Use the same gel moisturizer you used during your morning routine.

Weekly Treatments For Oily Skin

Besides your regular skincare routine, there are a couple of weekly treatments that can help keep oily skin under control and give it an extra glow.

Exfoliate with an AHA/BHA

Oily skin tends to have more dead skin cell build-up, leading to clogged pores and breakouts. Gently exfoliate once or twice a week with a chemical exfoliant such as AHA or BHA to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores. Unlike physical scrubs, chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs work their magic by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to naturally slough off.

I recommend using a salicylic acid 1-2 times per week during your PM skincare routine. I know it might be tempting, but don’t use an exfoliator every day. This can damage your skin barrier & lead to irritation, redness, and dryness. As a result, your skin might over compensate by creating more oil/sebum.

You may have heard that you should use glycolic acid and lactic acid for your acne, but I don’t agree with that recommendation. Here’s why.

While other acids like glycolic and lactic acids do a great job of exfoliating the skin’s surface, salicylic acid goes the extra mile. It dives deep into your pores and dissolves oil and dead skin cells to unclog your pores.

Pimple Patches

Pimple patches have become super popular to treat breakouts, but did you know there are two different types of patches? Hydrocolloid bandages and treatment patches.

Pimple patches are great because they prevent us from picking at our pimples, which can lead to scarring and infections. They also create a moist environment that promotes faster healing, similar to a relaxing spa day for your skin.

But that’s not all – They’re loaded with ingredients like salicylic acid and tea tree oil, delivering them directly to the problem area. It’s like a targeted attack on acne, leaving it no chance to stick around.

Now, let’s talk about the differences between the two types of patches.

• Hydrocolloid bandages are the softies, perfect for those raised pimples with visible pus. They soak up the icky stuff and flatten out the pimple. Studies even show they can reduce redness and oiliness after just a week. Talk about results!
• Acne treatment patches are your go-to for inflamed pimples with less fluid. Just remember, if it’s too wet, they might make a run for it. But the best part is, they’re practically invisible, so you can wear them like a champ all day!

Choosing the right patch is easy. If you’ve got some visible pus, go for the hydrocolloid bandages. For those inflamed pimples with less fluid, then pick an acne treatment patch.

Best Pimple Patches

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Clay or Activated Charcoal Masks

Kaolin and bentonite are two types of clay minerals that do an amazing job of absorbing oils, toxins, impurities, and other gunk from your skin. And guess what? They’re not just good at that! Studies have even shown that these clay minerals have antibacterial properties that can help fight off antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

On the other hand, activated charcoal also absorbs oils and toxins. While there isn’t a ton of research on its use in skincare, activated charcoal is commonly used in medical cases of poisoning because it’s really good at soaking up toxins from the body. So, the idea is that activated charcoal might also have some antibacterial properties.

Best Clay Masks

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Importance of Acne Treatment Consistency

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Conclusion

To sum up, understanding your skin type and creating an effective skincare regimen can take time. Trust your instincts and don’t be afraid to experiment with different products.

Everyone’s skin is unique, and what works for someone else might not work for you. Remember that even when dealing with acne-prone skin, less is definitely more.

And finally, the most important thing to remember: be patient! It will take weeks of consistency for you to see positive results.